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Picos de EuropaBy carEcelan — CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

Picos de Europa

Asturias, Cantabria and León, Spain · Spain

Three limestone massifs between Asturias, Cantabria and León, with two-thousand-metre walls less than twenty kilometres from the sea. It was Spain's first national park, declared in 1918, and the kingdom of Asturias began here too: at Covadonga, tradition holds, the battle was fought that halted the Muslim advance. Today the massif is driven around by its three sides, each with its own access and its own landscape.

3 days2 nights148 km8 stopsBest season: June and September. July and August are very busy. And the Lakes road is closed to private cars from June to mid-October, as well as at Easter, on May weekends and on bank-holiday weekends: on those days you go up by bus. In winter it snows up top and some accesses are cut. May and October are lovely but fog is more likely.

Day 1 · Covadonga and the cave-cured cheese

Cangas, the Lakes and Arenas · 43 km

Cangas de OnísEcelan — CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

Cangas de Onís

history

The first capital of the kingdom of Asturias, and therefore where everything that followed began. Its bridge, called Roman, is in fact medieval, from the Late Middle Ages, and a replica of the Cross of Victory hangs from it.

Tip

It is the last sizeable place to buy supplies: from here on the villages are tiny and many have no shop at all.

15 min to the next stop · 10 km

Covadonga and the LakesMarkus Braun — Public domain (Wikimedia Commons)

Covadonga and the Lakes

nature

The shrine is set inside a cave in the mountain, and above, at eleven hundred metres, lie the Enol and Ercina lakes, two glacial lakes ringed by pastures where cattle still come up in summer.

Tip

From June to mid-October and on peak dates (Easter, May weekends, bank-holiday weekends) the road to the lakes closes to private traffic and you go up by bus from Cangas or El Repelao. Check before setting out: it is the rule, not the exception.

40 min to the next stop · 33 km

Arenas de CabralesJoaquinceb — Public domain (Wikimedia Commons)

Arenas de Cabrales

gastronomy

The centre of Cabrales cheese, cured in natural mountain caves where constant humidity and temperature do the rest. There is a show cave where the whole process is explained.

Tip

It was traditionally wrapped in sycamore leaves. Today the one with protected designation of origin comes in green foil with its seal: that is what to look for.

Day 2 · The gorge and the village with no road

Poncebos, Bulnes and Sotres · 17 km

Poncebos and the CaresMaider (Tagzania user ID: 5660) — CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

Poncebos and the Cares

nature

The start of the Cares Route, the path cut into the gorge wall that links Asturias with León. It was opened in the early 20th century to service a hydroelectric channel, not for tourists.

Tip

Even if you do not do the whole route, walk the first stretch: half an hour in you are already in the spectacular part. And in season the car park fills up early: arrive early or take the bus from Arenas.

BulnesDubas from Oviedo, España — CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

Bulnes

heritage

A village no road reaches. Until 2001 you could only walk up by a path taking an hour and a half; now a funicular climbs through the inside of the mountain in seven minutes. Only a few dozen people live there.

Tip

The funicular leaves from Poncebos, is paid, and in season it is best to arrive early or buy your ticket in advance. If your legs are up to it, walk up and come down by funicular: the path is part of the place. The car stays in Poncebos.

20 min to the next stop · 11 km

SotresMick Stephenson mixpix — CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

Sotres

viewpoints

The highest inhabited village in the Picos de Europa, at one thousand and fifty metres, at the end of a road that leads nowhere else. For centuries it was a village of shepherds and cheese, and the summer huts are still visible on the pastures above.

Tip

Carry on along the track towards Tresviso as far as the Jito de Escarandi if the weather is clear: some of the best panoramas of the massif, and almost nobody there.

Day 3 · Liébana and the cable car

Potes and Fuente Dé · 88 km

PotesLuis Fermín TURIEL PEREDO — CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

Potes

history

The capital of Liébana, with medieval bridges over two rivers and the Infantado tower in the centre. It is the liveliest village on the Cantabrian side and the departure point for Fuente Dé.

Tip

Try the orujo, distilled here for centuries, and the cocido lebaniego. And if it is Monday, there is a market, as there has been since the Middle Ages.

25 min to the next stop · 23 km

Fuente DéJavier Pais — CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

Fuente Dé

viewpoints

A glacial cirque closed in by walls of over seven hundred metres, and a cable car that covers that climb in four minutes to the Cable viewpoint, at one thousand eight hundred and twenty-three. Up there you walk across the top of the massif with the peaks all around.

Tip

In summer and at Easter there are queues of hours. Arrive first thing, check whether advance tickets are on sale before you go, or go out of season: and in fog you see nothing from up there anyway.

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